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Title : Harbor and Coastal Building Materials
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Harbor and Coastal Building Materials

WHAT IS BEACH ENGINEERING

One of the courses from Marine Engineering, especially the marine study program, will discuss or study Coastal Engineering. BEACH ENGINEERING is a branch of Civil Engineering that relies on marine engineering (oceanography), meteorology, fluid mechanics, electronics, structural mechanics, geology and morphology, mathematics and statistics, computers, soil mechanics, and materials mechanics.

This coastal technique has applications in coastal areas, such as for example overcoming the problem of coastal erosion by constructing buildings around the coast, dealing with sediment in river mouths and shipping lanes as well as harbor pools, port construction, and so on.

The field of coastal engineering studies includes the following activities:

1. Planning various coastal buildings such as breakwaters, jetties, groins, beach walls, revetments, and so on.
2. Control the problem of coastal erosion by making buildings around the coast and adding sediment on the beach.
3. Stabilization of river estuaries by dredging and constructing buildings.
4. Forecasting of currents and water level elevation in estuaries and river mouths and their influence on water quality, sediment movement, shipping, and so on. Usually, this is studied in port planning courses
5. Planning ports and complementary buildings such as breakwaters, piers, dolphins, mooring systems, and so on.
6. Study of heat distribution from a factory, for example, hot water discharge from a gas and steam power plant (PLTGU) or the spread of pollutants/waste from a factory.
7. Reclamation of coastal areas for industrial or residential areas around the coast.
8. Dredging of harbor waters and manufacture of dredging materials.

Solving these coastal engineering problems requires an understanding of marine and coastal phenomena. Studies concerning coastal engineering problems can be carried out in three groups, namely:

1.theoretical and mathematical studies,

2. study in the laboratory, and

3. field study.

The three types of studies mentioned above will support and relate to each other. That's enough for the article WHAT IS BEACH ENGINEERING, hopefully, the knowledge is easily understood for all of us. Thank you Hopefully Helpful by Material-Shipment

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The Power of Offshore Building

 

The need for coastal engineering activities (housing, hotels, tourism area buildings, docks, ports, and others) and offshore (Oil Platforms and others) regarding the information on water conditions is very much needed. This cannot be separated from how an engineer designs a coastal and offshore building structure related to building materials and compositions so that they are strong and can last a long time. The most important factors in these water conditions are wave energy waves, sea-level dynamics, sedimentation processes, water mass properties, and water circulation patterns. If these factors are considered in designing coastal and offshore structures, a coastal and offshore structure can certainly be stronger and have a longer life.

Observing water conditions to determine their characteristics will take a lot of time and cost because the information is obtained by conducting comprehensive observations with complete water observation parameters. Through the use of modeling technology, these obstacles can be overcome by developing various modeling scenarios to simulate water conditions in the short and long term. As a result, it can be seen the impact of water conditions such as what might affect the condition of the strength of the coastal and offshore structures.

The Hydrodynamics model module is used to determine the circulation pattern of the developed model scenario. Considering the strength and weakness of currents, this model module can be included in the design parameters of coastal and offshore structures. Various wave modules have also been provided which are adapted to the characteristics of the waters to be studied. This wave model module is to determine the characteristics of the parameters that play a role in influencing the condition of the strength of the building structure against wave energy crashes. Density and movement of bottom sediment in the long term can also be considered in designing the strength of coastal and offshore structures. The module provided is the Basic Sediment Movement model module. The process of coastal erosion and sediment erosion of the bottom of the water will affect the strength of the building structure in the long term. If a more in-depth study is needed in areas in estuary waters, the River Flow module can be integrated so that it can analyze more comprehensively the design of the strength of the building structure and its relation to the energy released from estuary waters that have river mouths.

Model modules that can be used to build models with scenarios and simulations of offshore building strengths can be seen in the menu on the right.

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Offshore Building Stability

 

It often occurs when a pier or wave barrier is seen breaking in the structure or experiencing a certain slope. The incident was due to unstable building structures on the coast (housing, hotels, tourism area buildings, docks, ports, etc.) and offshore (Oil Platforms and others). The biggest influence on the stability of offshore structures is the movement of sediments and the surge of wave energy at the bottom and in the water column due to the forces acting on them, namely currents and waves. The construction of building structures in water bodies causes changes in circulation patterns and wave parameters. These changes result in the movement of basic sediment from one place to another or amplify wave energy. Some possibilities that occur are the entry of sediment into the building structure area if the building structure is close to the river mouth as a source of sediment and the discharge or erosion of the bottom water-sediment on the building structure to one place This last condition causes instability of building structures on the coast and offshore.

To overcome this, it is necessary to study the condition of water circulation, movement of sediment and water particles, and wave conditions in these waters before and after the construction of the structure. This study uses model modules to simulate the causes of the instability of the condition of the building structure. The Hydrodynamics module is provided to study circulation patterns and sea levels in the waters. Various wave model modules are provided to study the characteristics of wave parameters. The selection of the right wave module depends on the characteristics of the waters. Sediment displacement is simulated with the Basic Sediment Movement module. If a more in-depth study is needed in areas in estuary waters, the River Flow module can be integrated so that it can analyze more comprehensively.

The model module that can be used to build models with scenarios and simulations of the stability of offshore structures can be seen in the menu on the right.

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Wave Analysis Tool

The wave analysis module is a high-level analysis module for analyzing wave time-series data obtained from physical models, numerical simulations, or field observations. This module consists of four sub-modules, which are as follows:

   1. Wave spectral analysis

This sub-module can analyze wave time series data into the frequency domain through Fast Fourier Transform (FFT). It is therefore assumed that the wave time series data consists of an infinite number of waves with infinite amplitude and wave phase that form a superposition. The facilities of this sub-module are as follows:

- Auto Spectrum

- Cross Spectrum (amplitude and phase)

- Cross Spectrum (real and imaginary parts)

- Frequency response spectrum (gain and phase)

- Coherent power spectrum

- Coherence spectrum

   2. Digital filter analysis

The digital filter submodule provides a wide range of options for digital filters. In general, filtering is a process for selecting, attenuating, and suppressing certain frequency components of a time series signal with a certain amount so that a pattern is formed from the frequency spectrum of the signal. This filter uses a class of filters called Finite Impulse Response (FIR) or also known as non-recursive filters. This filter is characterized by a certain filter coefficient in the time domain and decreases with a certain transfer function into the frequency domain. Filter operation is easier by providing time series data using multiple filter coefficients.

   3. Wave direction analysis

This sub-module is an efficient tool for analyzing the direction of wave motion where sea level data and orthogonal velocity (fluxes) move together. This sub-module is based on the calculation of the Maximum Entropy Method (MEM) developed by Nwogu et al, (1987). This sub-module consists of several spectrums, functions, and properties, which are as follows:

- Directional spectrum or directional spread function

- Distribution of energy direction or distribution of direction (frequency integrated).

- Spectrum of sea level height.

- The function of the average direction of the wave and the function of its spread.

- Spectral value

- Average direction and spread of waves

   4. Wave travel analysis

This sub-module is for analyzing trips or tracks from wave routes (zero-crossing analysis) from one point to another in a wave path. In one wave path from time-series data, it is determined by dividing the time series data by one wave path occurrence concerning the water level above or below it. At each occurrence of one wave cycle, the wave parameter values ​​can be determined as follows:

- Peak to the peak value of the next wave

- Wave travel levels to breaking waves.

- The wave travel level it goes through

- Levels from mean water level to breaking waves

- The level of the mean water level through which the waves pass

- Standard deviation of each wave occurrence

- Wave travel time

- Length (period) of wave occurrence Canadian

The results of the analysis can be presented in the form of a scatter diagram or to show the probability of the distribution being presented in the form of a histogram. To eliminate the impact of small values ​​from the observations due to noise, a filter can be applied to the wave travel.

The application of the wave analysis device module can be modeled and simulated in various scenarios with the applications listed in the menu on the right.

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Hydrodynamics

The hydrodynamics module simulates variations in sea level and current flow generated by several sources including tides, wind, discharge, and wave refraction (Stationary or Quasi Stationary) as well as other parameters including bottom roughness (Manning Number or Chezy Number), and viscosity. eddy (Flux or Velocity based). The outputs of the hydrodynamics module include water level, P Flux, Q Flux, surface elevation, U-velocity, V-velocity, still water depth, x-shear stress, and y-shear stress.

This hydrodynamics module can be applied to a rectangular grid area, either one or a combination of several grid domains and in the form of a mesh (flexible Mesh / Finite Mesh). The hydrodynamics module can be expressed in the form of a 2D (two-dimensional) hydrodynamic model to view hydrodynamic flow with a spatial domain or 3D (three-dimensional) to view hydrodynamic flow with a spatial and vertical domain.

The application of the hydrodynamics module can be modeled and simulated in various scenarios with the applications listed in the menu on the right.

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Basic Sediment Movement

 The basic sediment movement module consists of two types of sediments, namely cohesive sediments and non-cohesive sediments. Basically, this module is a combined process of suspended sediment particles with bottom water sediments. The suspended sediment grain fraction and the bottom sediment layer can be set up to a maximum of 8 fractions and layers. The basic sediment movement module can be simulated with a grid or mesh type and can be in 2D (2 dimensions) and 3D (3 dimensions).

The output of the bottom sediment movement module is the thickness of the sediment (thickness), the mass of the bottom sediment (bed mass), net deposition of sediment (net deposition), and accumulated net deposition of sediment (accumulated net deposition) from each fraction or layer or can be calculated from the total fraction or layer. The basic data needed to model the movement of bottom sediments is from the hydrodynamics module which includes bathymetry, initial sea level, eddy viscosity (Flux or Velocity based), and bottom roughness (Manning Number or Chezy Number) with hydrodynamic generating forces including tides, wind, discharge and wave refraction (Stationary or Quasi Stationary). The data required for the basic cohesive sediment movement module are as follows:

• Initial sediment concentration
• Sources of sedimentation (point sources)
• Sediment fraction (maximum 8 fractions)
• Sediment layer (maximum 8 layers)
• The coefficient of dispersion (Dispersion Coeff.) with two options is neither current dependent nor current dependent
• Sediment generator (forcing sediment) consists of 2 parameters, namely waves and dredging
• The suspended sediment-water column parameter consists of a settling coefficient with a velocity using flocculation or without flocculation using the Winterwerp method or the Richardson and Zaki formula by considering hindered settling and a deposition coefficient consisting of Rouse Profile or Teeter Profile.
• The basic parameters of the waters consist of the coefficient of sediment erosion, the density of the sediment layer, the coefficient of sliding sediment, the morphological formation parameters, the roughness of the bottom of the waters, and the coefficient of transition between sediment layers (transition layer).

The data required for the basic non-cohesive sediment movement module (sand) is as follows:

• Hydrodynamic parameters of currents or currents and waves
• If using current parameters, the module used is sediment transport theory with the formula Engelund & Hansen, Engelund & Fredsøe, Zyserman & Fredsøe, Meyer-Peter & Muller, Ackers & White, and Van Rijn with the coefficient of relative density of sediment, critical shield parameter, water temperature, bedload factor and suspended load factor.
• If current and wave parameters are used, the modules used are deterministic STP (classical two-dimensional /2DH and quasi three-dimensional /Q3D) and Bijker's method (relative density of sediment, water temperature, and bedload transport sediment). Wave height and period data are also used if current and wave parameters are used.
• The bottom roughness of the waters using the formula of Manning number or Chezy number.
• Sediment characteristics include grain size, porosity, and gradation coefficient.
• Morphological parameters include the scheme used, namely FTCS or Lax-Wendroff
• The filter method is the courant coefficient.
• Bed slope diffusivity effect scale factor.
• The lateral boundary conditions include sediment flux gradient, bed level gradient, sediment flux gradient inflow, and outflow.

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Spectral Wave

The spectral wave model module is a new generation of wind-generated wave modeling on grid mesh types (unstructured meshes). This model module simulates the growth, attenuation, and transformation of wind-generated waves and swells on the coast and offshore. The equation formulation used consists of two types, namely as follows:

1. Formulation of the pairwise direction parameterization of spectral waves.

This type uses a conservative equation in which the parameterization of the frequency domain of the wave spectrum action is determined by the variables used by Holthuijsen (1989).

2. Formulation of all spectral wave directions.

This type uses a conservative equation in which the parameterization of the frequency domain of the wave spectrum action is determined by the variables used by Komen et al (1994) and Young (1999).

The two formulations can be applied to Cartesian coordinates for scales with harbor and coastal areas or by using spherical coordinates at high latitudes or for large scale areas (Banda Sea, South Java, Java Sea, Sunda Strait, and others). -other).

The spectral wave model module has included calculations that accommodate physical phenomena including the following:

1. Wind-generated wave growth.

2. Interaction between non-linear waves.

3. Wave attenuation caused by the boundary characteristics of the water

4. Wave attenuation caused by the roughness of the seabed

5. Attenuation of waves caused by the depth that causes waves to break.

6. Refraction and shoaling of waves due to variations in depth.

7. Interaction between currents and waves.

8. The effect of changes in-depth due to tides.

Discretization of the wave equation in geographic and spherical coordinates using centered cells in the finite volume method. The time integration used is a fractional step approach where an explicit multi-sequential method is used for wave action propagation.

The data needed to simulate the spectral wave model module are as follows:

1. Bathymetry

2. Spectral discretization

3. Sea level

4. Sea surface current

5. Wind

6. Energy transfer between waves

7. The height of the breaking wave

8. Roughness of the bottom of the water

9. White capping

10. Boundary conditions include wave parameters, wave action spectrum, wave energy spectrum, or lateral boundary.

The output of the spectral wave module is as follows:

Significant wave height

• Maximum wave height
• Wave peak period
• T01 wave period
• T02 wave period
• Tm10. wave period
• The direction of wave crest
• Average wave direction
• The standard deviation of wave direction
• Wave speed component
• Wave radiation force

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Spectral Waves in Shallow Waters

This wave model module is suitable for use in shallow waters to show the propagation of wind-generated waves, the formation process, and the attenuation of waves with short periods with many breaking waves in shallow water. This module can also describe the occurrence of wave refraction and shoaling due to the effects of changes in-depth, local wind conditions, and attenuation of wave energy due to the influence of bottom friction and breaking waves. This module can also show the effects of the interaction between waves and currents.

This wave module is stationary, varies in pairs of directions, and is a wave parametric module. The interaction between currents and waves uses the conservation equation for the density of wave action. The parameterization of the conservation equation in the frequency domain is formed from the zeroth and first moments of the wave action which are independent variables.

The frequency spectrum is assumed to be the peak of individual waves which means that the interaction of wave phenomena in the ocean cannot be simulated (open wind-wave and swell). The basic equation used is the differentiation technique of the Eulerian finite with a rectangular grid on various discrete variations of the wave direction.

This module is suitable for studying wave disturbances on the coast. An in-depth study of wave height, wave period, and wave direction is an important factor for estimating wave-forming forces along the coastline. The importance of coastal engineering is for the purposes of sediment transport where the area near the coast is very largely determined by wave conditions and waves associated with currents. The current formed by waves is built up by the radiation forces of the waves on the surface of the water.

The things that need to be considered in building a wave model with this module are whether the phenomena that will be studied have been accommodated by this module? These wave phenomena include the following:

1. Shoaling

2. Wave Refraction

3. Wave Diffraction

4. Wave Reflection

5. Wave attenuation due to roughness of the waterbed.

6. Wave barrier

7. Breakwater

8. Generating from the wind

9. Spread of wave frequency

10. Wave direction spread

This wave module can study in-depth the phenomena mentioned above except wave diffraction, wave reflection, the interaction between waves, and wave barrier.

The data needed to simulate the spectral wave module in shallow water are as follows:

1. Bathymetry

2. Offshore boundary conditions (type of boundary condition and parameter of boundary condition) and lateral boundary condition (Symmetrical or absorbing)

3. Discretization of wave direction

4. Numerical parameters

5. Wave attenuation by the bottom of the water

6. Sea level

7. Breaking waves

8. Parameters of wave and current interaction

9. Wind generating style

The output of the Spectral wave module in shallow water is as follows:

1. Wave parameters

2. Wave vector components

3. Wave radiation force.

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Parabolic Mild Slope Wave

sumber: http://zonabmi.org/index.php/modul/gelombang-parabolic-mild-slope

Modul model gelombang parabolic mild slope adalah model gelombang linier refraksi-difraksi dengan basis persamaan dari pendekatan parabolik sampai dengan persamaan elliptic mild slope. Modul ini memecahkan pengaruh dari refraksi dan shoaling gelombang karena adanya variasi kedalaman dan efek dari refraksi gelombang di sepanjang arah dan pelemahan energi gelombang karena pengaruh friksi dasar perairan dan gelombang pecah. Modul ini juga memperlihatkan pengaruh dari frekuensi dan penyebaran arah gelombang dengan menggunakan persamaan linier superposisi.

Modul gelombang ini berbasis persamaan dengan pendekatan dari parabolik sampai dengan persamaan mild slope. Beberapa pendekatan parabolik diterapkan dari mulai pendekatan simple dengan sudut gelombang yang kecil sampai dengan gelombang besar dengan sudut gelombang yang besar (kurang lebih sampai dengan 60°). Persamaan parabolik yang dipakai menggunakan skema finite difference dari Crank-Nicholson.

Modul ini tepat digunakan untuk mengkaji gangguan gelombang pada perairan pantai terbuka atau pada perairan pantai terbuka dengan terdapat struktur bangunan (pemecah gelombang, penghalang gelombang dan lain-lain) dimana gelombang pantul dari refraksi gelombang oleh struktur bangunan dapat diabaikan dan dimana difraksi gelombang terutama terjadi pada arah gelombang utama. Modul ini sangat penting untuk mengkaji kondisi gelombang (tinggi gelombang, periode gelombang dan arah gelombang) dan arus yang terbentuk dari gelombang untuk melakukan studi mengenai transport sedimen dan pola erosi dan disposisi pada zona-zona pantai.

Modul gelombang ini tidak secara tepat untuk mengkaji kondisi refraksi dan difraksi gelombang terutama jika melakukan studi untuk mengetahui pola difraksi dan refraksi gelombang pada pelabuhan dengan banyak struktur bangunan pantai, tetapi dapat dimanfaatkan untuk melakukan kajian mengenai kekuatan dan kestabilan struktur bangunan pelabuhan, tidak untuk melihat dampak dari refraksi dan difraksi gelombang terhadap kestabilan kapal dan manuver kapal di pelabuhan.

Hal-hal yang perlu diperhatikan dalam membangun model gelombang dengan modul ini adalah apakah fenomena-fenomena yang akan ditelaah sudah diakomodir oleh modul ini? Fenomena-fenomena gelombang tersebut meliputi sebagai berikut:

1. Shoaling
2. Refraksi Gelombang
3. Difraksi Gelombang
4. Refleksi Gelombang
5. Pelemahan Gelombang karena friksi dasar perairan
6. Blok Gelombang
7. Gelombang Pecah
8. Angin pembangkit gelombang
9. Penyebaran frekuensi gelombang
10. Penyebaran arah gelombang
11. Interaksi antar gelombang
12. Interaksi gelombang dan arus

Data-data yang dibutuhkan untuk mensimulasikan modul gelombang Parabolic Mild Slope adalah sebagai berikut:

1. Bathymetry

2. Offshore boundary conditions (type of boundary condition and parameter of boundary condition) and lateral boundary condition (Symmetrical or absorbing)

3. Discretization of wave direction

4. Numerical parameters

5. Wave attenuation by the bottom of the water

6. Sea level

7. Breaking waves

8. Parameters of wave and current interaction

9. Wind generating style

The output of the Spectral wave module in shallow water is as follows:

1. Wave parameters

2. Wave vector components

3. Wave radiation force.

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Elliptic Mild Slope Wave

This wave model module uses an efficient numerical equation solution, so it is called the mild-slope equation where the numerical equation is built using the infinitesimal height wave hormonal equation for exposure to the bottom of the water that has a stable slope. This module incorporates the linear equations of wave diffraction including wave breaking, friction, and wave scattering. Partial refraction and transmission of waves through piers and breakwaters are also included. Sponge layers are also used when a numerical solution of the wave energy absorption layer is required. This wave module also contains numerical equations for the wave radiation force used for crossing wave propagation and in areas where there is large wave diffraction.

This mild slope elliptic wave module is a module with a unique solution method. The harmonic time variation is extracted and the elliptic equation is formulated as an equation of mass and momentum using the finite difference scheme method with the ADI algorithm. The calculation of the wave period is determined from the wave height, particle velocity components, sea level, and especially breaking waves are determined from the wave radiation force in the modeled area.

This wave model module is used to study the resonance of waves at the port, long-wave periods and to calculate wave forces in less extensive coastal areas where the effects of diffraction and breaking waves are very important to consider. The dominant wave generating styles are monochromatic and unidirectional. This wave module can be applied to all bottom water depth profiles and is limited to non-linear effects including wave amplitude dispersion and interaction between waves. This model is very good for studying wave disturbances in ports with short wave periods.

The things that need to be considered in building a wave model with this module are whether the phenomena that will be studied have been accommodated by this module? These wave phenomena include the following:

1. Shoaling

2. Wave Refraction

3. Wave Diffraction

4. Wave Reflection

5. Wave attenuation due to roughness of the seabed

6. Breaking waves

7. Wind as a wave generating force

8. Spread of wave frequency

9. Spread of wave direction

10. Interaction between waves

11. Interaction of waves and currents

The data needed to simulate the Elliptic Mild Slope wave module are as follows:

1. Bathymetry

2. Conditions for the limit of absorbing waves.

3. Partial wave reflection

4. Breaking waves

5. Parameters of bottom friction

6. Wave height

7. Wave period

The output of the Elliptic Mild Slope wave module is as follows:

1. Wave parameters

2. Relative wave height

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Wave Refraction

This wave refraction-diffraction module is a combination of several wave modules including spectral wave modules, spectral waves in shallow waters, waves with parabolic mild-slope in large areas, and elliptic mild-slope in a small area (harbor) where an important aspect of The factors that cause wave refraction are very important to be studied and studied in depth. The wave generating forces can vary with broad assumptions about the formula used to simulate the occurrence of wave diffraction.

The combination of wave generating forces and assumptions used with certain formulas is good for studying the pattern and propagation of refraction and diffraction of waves. This simulation is useful for generating appropriate scenarios to simulate the refraction and diffraction conditions of waves. The resulting wave refraction and diffraction can be formed from the short wave period to the long-wave period, depending on the area of ​​the model and the assumptions of the formula used.

The data used depend on the included wave generating forces and the assumptions of the formula used. In more detail, it can be seen in the spectral wave module, spectral waves in shallow waters, waves with parabolic mild-slope in a large area, and elliptic mild-slope in a small area (harbor).

The output of this wave module is in the form of wave parameters including wave height, wave period and propagation pattern, velocity, and direction of wave components.

The things that need to be considered in building a wave model with this module are whether the phenomena that will be studied have been accommodated by this module? These wave phenomena include the following:

1. Shoaling

2. Wave Refraction

3. Wave Diffraction

4. Wave Reflection

5. Wave attenuation due to bottom friction

6. Wave Block

7. Breaking Wave

8. Wind generating waves

9. Spread of wave frequency

10. Wave direction spread

11. Interaction between waves

12. Interaction of waves and currents

The application of the wave diffraction-refraction module can be modeled and simulated in various scenarios with the applications listed in the menu on the right.

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Boussinesq. wave

Boussinesq wave module is the latest wave module with complex numerical equation formulation used. The Boussinesq equation has included the calculation of nonlinearity as a frequency dispersion. Basically, the frequency dispersion is included in the momentum equation to show the effect of vertical acceleration at different pressures of water masses. The Boussinesq wave module solves numerical equations using a flux-formulation by adding the linear dispersion characteristic of the wave. This equation was first developed by Madsen et al (1991) and Madsen and Sørensen (1992) so that it succeeded in simulating the Boussinesq wave module with propagation from deep water to shallow water.

This Boussinesq wave model module was then further developed in the surface zone by adding the formulation of breaking waves and wave movement on the coast by Madsen et al (1997a,b), Sørensen, and Sørensen (2001), and Sørensen et al (1998, 2004). This Boussinesq wave module has the capability to simulate a combination of all wave effects in marinas, harbors, and on the coast including the following wave phenomena:

1. Shoaling

2. Wave Refraction

3. Wave Diffraction

4. Breaking waves

5. Wave attenuation due to roughness of the waterbed

6. Coastline movement and change

7. Partial reflection and wave transmission

8. Non-linear interaction of waves

9. Spread of wave frequency

10. Wave direction spread

Other wave phenomena that can be studied and studied in more depth by the Boussinesq wave module are wave merging, wave shock on the surface, sub-harmonic and super-harmonic wave bonds, and short-wave resonant harmonic interactions. In addition, this Boussinesq wave module can also detail the formation and release of low-frequency wave oscillations due to wave transformation. These wave phenomena are very important to study to conduct studies on wave resonance in ports and coasts.

This Boussinesq wave module consists of two, namely as follows:

1. 2DH Boussinesq wave, where the wave can be simulated in a two-dimensional space scale. The Boussinesq wave equation is applied to the implicit finite difference technique method with variables defined on a rectangular grid.

2. 1DH Boussinesq wave, where the wave can be simulated in a one-dimensional space scale. The Boussinesq wave equation is applied to the Galerkin finite element technique method with mixed variables interpolated on an unstructured grid (mesh) or on a rectangular grid.

The oscillatory dynamics of the surface wave zone and the wave sweep zone can be applied with these modules to all types of coastal water profiles. This Boussinesq wave module can also include water porosity effects to simulate partial reflection and transmission of waves through building structures such as piers, barriers, and breakwaters. Sponge layers can also be used to simulate the effect of absorption of wave energy. In addition, what is no less important than the wave phenomenon is that the Boussinesq wave module can also simulate the internal wave generating force (soliton) of the water column.

The main application of the Boussinesq wave module is to determine and study wave dynamics at the pier and in the harbor in the coastal area. Disturbance in the port is a very important factor when engineers select the construction area and determine the optimal port design with acceptable criteria in case of disturbance by waves taking into account the movement of ships, determining the placement of moorings, and placement of ships.

In more detail, the Boussinesq wave module is divided into two sub-modules with each of these sub-modules having specific applications. The application of each of these sub-modules is as follows:

1. 2DH Boussinesq wave, namely:

• Determination of wave disturbance due to wind and swell effects
• Analysis of low-frequency oscillations, the resonance of waves by short waves due to the presence of long waves
• Wave transformation on the coast where the phenomena of wave reflection and diffraction are important factors that must be considered
• Calculation of surface waves includes waves that result in the formation of currents and runup or rundown.
• Simulation of transient wave propagation and transformation such as waves formed by ship motion and tsunamis.

2. 1DH Boussinesq wave, namely:

• Calculation of wave transformation for non-linear waves from the depth of the water column to the surface zone to the shore
• Analysis of the formation and release of low-frequency waves
• Study of breaking waves, wave formation from undersea currents and run up on structures, piers, and beaches

The things that need to be considered in building a wave model with this module are whether the phenomena that will be studied have been accommodated by this module? These wave phenomena include the following:

1. Shoaling

2. Wave Refraction

3. Wave Diffraction

4. Partial reflection and wave transformation

5. Wave attenuation due to bottom friction

6. Run-up

7. Breaking Wave

8. Wind generating waves

9. Spread of wave frequency

10. Wave direction spread

11. Interaction between waves

12. Interaction of waves and currents

The data needed to simulate the Boussinesq wave module are as follows:

1. Bathymetry

2. Wave dispersion factor with depth

3. Numerical parameters of the discretization of the convective function

4. Wave limit conditions

5. Real value of land

6. Sea level

7. Internal wave generator

8. Coefficient of bottom roughness

9. Eddy Viscosity

10. Filter method (Low Pass filter)

11. Breaking wave parameters

12. Parameters of wave movement on the coast

13. The value of porosity in the building structure (reflection and wave transmission)

14. Sponge value in building structures (wave absorption)

The output of the Boussinesq wave module is as follows:

1. Sea level

2. Depth level

3. P Flux

4. Q Flux

5. Roller thickness

6. Roller angle

7. Significant wave height

8. Maximum wave height

9. Maximum sea level

10. Minimum sea level

11. Average sea level

12. Average P Flux

13. Average Q Flux

14. Average speed of the zonal component

15. Average velocity of the meridional component

16. Average thickness of the breaking wave intensity (Roller thickness)

17. The angle of inclination of the horizontal axis of symmetry of the wave (Skewness)

18. The angle of inclination of the vertical axis of symmetry of the wave (Atiltness)

19. Tilt angle of waves to identify the characteristics of non-Gaussian waves (Kurtosis)

20. Wave radiation force

 

Thus a brief discussion of the article Harbor and Coastal Building Materials

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